On this spot the pilgrims display their
merchandise, and there too the trading residents of the place offer
their goods for sale. I have never, I think, seen elsewhere in
Asia so much commercial animation as upon this square of ground by
the church door; the "money-changers" seemed to be almost as brisk
and lively as if they had been WITHIN the temple.
When I entered the church I found a babel of worshippers. Greek,
Roman, and Armenian priests were performing their different rites
in various nooks and corners, and crowds of disciples were rushing
about in all directions, some laughing and talking, some begging,
but most of them going round in a regular and methodical way to
kiss the sanctified spots, and speak the appointed syllables, and
lay down the accustomed coin. If this kissing of the shrines had
seemed as though it were done at the bidding of enthusiasm, or of
any poor sentiment even feebly approaching to it, the sight would
have been less odd to English eyes; but as it was, I stared to see
grown men thus steadily and carefully embracing the sticks and the
stones, not from love or from zeal (else God forbid that I should
have stared!), but from a calm sense of duty; they seemed to be not
"working out," but TRANSACTING the great business of salvation.
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